July 24, 2012

THE EDIT: THE OLYMPICS

Even if it is costing London an absolute fortune, it's not to get caught up in the Olympic spirit. Yet while the national merchandise and overtly-branded pieces do border on tacky, these limited-edition Bally sneakers - replete with the flags of 12 countries, screen printed with a vintage effect - are a way to put a celebratory foot forward this sporty season. 

July 23, 2012

INTRODUCING: MARIUS PETRUS

The beginning of a new season brings with it hundreds of new campaigns and look books showcasing a designer's collection, some of which we have been posting during recent weeks. But, amongst all of this, a few young, new designers have come to the fore, and with youth on our own side, we are keen to introduce some of these new generation talents. First up: Belgian Marius Op ‘t Eynde of Marius Petrus

What is your background? 
I was born in 1989, in a tiny town in the south of the Netherlands called Roermond. I've always been into drawing, making stuff and art in general, ever since I could hold a pencil. At around the age of 15 it became clear that I wanted to make it my living in the future, and I wanted to go to art school after high school. I inherited my mother's love for fabric (she's an interior designer) and I joined the fashion department at Artez in Arnhem. Already determined to become a menswear designer - frustrated not to be able to find the clothes I wanted to wear at the time - I started designing menswear from my 2nd year. I had a full-season internship at Alexander Mcqueen menswear, which was a great experience where I learned loads. After the graduation shows in Arnhem, my collection was nominated for the Frans Molenaar Award, which included showing at Amsterdam Fashion week, and was awarded with an honourable mention. After my graduation I interned a season at the Raf Simons' studio in Antwerp, which was also an amazing learning experience. 

What is your intention? 
My intention is to create modern, interesting and different clothing, to try and add something new, while still having an eye for tradtions and craftsmanship. 

How would you describe your aesthetic? 
MariusPetrus brings strong, masculine collections, with graphic shapes, bold colours and architectural prints. Classical tailoring elements with a modern signature, merging seamlessly with sportswear influences and high tech materials, thus creating an interesting blend of men’s heritage and future concepts.

What do you aim to offer men?
I aim to offer men different, new options for their wardrobe, both in terms of shape, colour and fabric. My clothing is always ment to be worn, so I aim to offer not just aesthetical collections, but also items that will be the next favourite piece in your wardrobe. Over the next seasons the collections will also get more technically advanced, as I will be diving into new ways of constructing clothing. 





July 18, 2012

ASOS IN THE AIR

New season campaigns and lookbooks are being released thick and fast in recent weeks as stores prepare to receive their next hit of product. At ASOS, the online retailer with a dedicated Australian site, things move a little quicker. Herewith, the store's autumn/winter collection, available online from August through November.




July 17, 2012

THE EDIT: PRADA

Little needs to be said here. These shoes, from Prada's fall collection, share the daring of the previous season's golf-inspired range as well as the restraint and classicism of Italian dress. 

July 16, 2012

OH, THE LIBERTY

Hardy, well-made menswear is something of a specialty for Danish menswear label Libertine-Libertine. Those Scandinavians certainly know how to put together a garment, typically with simplicity at the core, and the brand's autumn/winter collection is no exception. We're particularly taken with the classicism of the pieces: button-down shirts, t-shirts, chinos and anoraks in a subdued colour palette of olive, navy, cobalt blue and grey. Herewith, a preview.



WOOLMARK PRIZE

At an invitation-only dinner last night at the Museum of Contemporary Art, Sydney, Woolmark announced womenswear Dion Lee as the winner of the Australian division of its inaugural Woolmark Prize, which also includes Europe, China, India and the USA. Mr Lee took home a handsome sum of $50,000, an unheard of amount for an Australian fashion award, and will compete against his 4 international counterparts for a further $100,000 in London early next year. The designer, known for his sharp tailoring and clever use of fabrics, was an obvious choice to represent Australia on the international stage, and a most deserving one, but we send our congratulations to the five other finalists which included Carl Kapp, Magdalena Velevska, Christopher Esber, Kym Ellery and (above) menswear label Song for the Mute. Now, for Mr Lee to start producing menswear... 

July 12, 2012

THE EDIT: GIVENCHY

This piece needs little introduction. From Givenchy's classic accessories line, the black slip-on with brogue detailing is just what every man needs in their wardrobe. Simple. 

July 10, 2012

CUT FROM A DIFFERENT CLOTH

The introduction of a suiting line completes the offering of men's department store Harrolds.

PHOTOGRAPHY SAM HENDELSTYLING JOLYON MASON
GROOMING CHRISTINA CAREY | MODEL BENJAMIN ASHLEY

Sitting somewhere between Harrolds' contemporary designer offering and existing portfolio of luxury suiting labels is its own suiting line. "It was a natural move for us to do this after spending so long in the business," explains Theo Poulakis, Harrolds' joint owner and managing director. "I wanted to create something by Harrolds and for Harrolds' something beautiful that perfectly fitted our brand and that people could aspire to." Effectively, Harrolds' suiting line straddles the new and the old of the business: while of the utmost fabric quality, construction and presentation, the two suits - a British- and a French-cut - borrow elements from contemporary men's fashion that traditional suiting simply doesn't. For one, they're slimmer than a typical suit. But this was bound to be the case, given Mr Poulakis employed specific tailors known for their work with Dior Homme, (he who created Hedi Slimane's famed slim cut) and Ralph Lauren Purple Label - to concoct the particular style of each of them, inspired by men's style icons. 

Harrolds' French-cut suit takes its sartorial cue from musician, actor and director Serge Gainsbourg circa 1970. What defines the suit, beyond its slim, hourglass silhouette, is its high rise: the waistline is higher than normal, the back split longer, and it features a disproportionately long length between chest and wast. "It attracts a younger, stylish customer," says Mr Poulakis, which makes sense, given its sold off-the-rack in solid charcoal, navy and black, as opposed to pinstripe fabrics that sit in a more financial realm. "It's not at all preppy. It's slick and sophisticated and a bit rocker." 

While The French-cut shares construction similarities with its British-cut brother - the fully canvassed interior, the five buttonholes - it attracts a far younger customer, given the slimness of its cut. The British-cut suit, while still on the slimmer side, ensuring it remains relevant in a contemporary market, has more Savile Row qualities to it, drawing on the legacy of Michael Caine's style. The shoulders are broader, the chest larger, and features hand stitching throughout. 

In terms of fabrication, the suits are ready-made from silk wool of the finest quality - 16-micron merino wool, in contrast to the coarser average of 19- to 20-micron - but can be custom-created in over 2000 fabrics, ranging from cashmere mink to wool mohair. While the custom option ranges on a sliding scale upwards from $1850, purchasing them off-the-rack begins at $1650 which, when considering their design and place of manufacture, Italy, is considerably affordable. 

"The concept has been really well received," says Mr Poulakis, noting that while the French suit outsells the British two to one, the suits have, very quickly formed approximately 30% of the retailer's suiting business which, in all, forms a quarter of the stores' broader sales. "We can thank Mad Men and Tom Ford for that," jokes Mr Poulakis. And after a year, the retailer and his tailor are finally happy with the fit and cut, though fine-tuning remains on the cards. "We might change little things, but just to keep it interesting." 



July 1, 2012

PARIS FASHION WEEK 2012

THE SHOW Dior Homme
THE DETAILS 3pm, 30 June, Tennis club de Paris, 84, Avenue Georges Lafont, Paris
THE DESIGNER Kris Van Assche
THE BRAND Dior Homme is the male offering of French haute couture house Christian Dior. 
THE COLOURS Navy, red, white, grey. 
THE STYLES Mr Van Assche thoroughly interrogated and explored the possibilities of tailoring, presenting slight variations on single- and double-breasted blazers and trousers that demonstrated the precision of his cuts and sharpness of his vision.