IN CONVERSATION: OLIVER PEOPLES' LARRY LEIGHT

This month marks the 25th anniversary of American eyewear label Oliver Peoples. The brainchild of Larry Leight, the company got its start when the founder purchased an estate of vintage frames, having since championed simple, classic shades. As one of the first eyewear designers to have been elected a member of the CFDA, Mr Leight's expertise in the field of eyewear is unparalleled. Here, he speaks with Manuscript about the quarter century milestone. 

The anniversary design 'XXV' was discovered amongst your archives from 1989. What updates did you make on the original design?
Barely any. Of course there are little details and exact, precise measurements that were defined when we decided to actually produce the styles, but the overall design and concepts stayed very true to the original design I had in mind.

In the 25 years of Oliver Peoples, how has the eyewear fashion market changed?

What is very different today as opposed to 25 years ago is the internet. The world is getting smaller and smaller and access to information and all sorts of products is at our fingertips. In the past, brand awareness was achieved strictly by word of mouth and magazine editorials.  Global exposure is today possible through the different channels of social media. It’s still a form of word of mouth but Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Pintrest etc. all help get the brand message out there. In the eyewear industry specifically, I believe the largest change is that there is a significantly greater variety available to choice from and Internet allows the consumer to be more educated about their options.When Oliver Peoples first launched, eyewear was still considered somewhat of a medical accessory. Now, 25 years later, there has been an extreme rise in awareness on the commercial side - department stores which used to carry very few brands are now turning their focus to this market which, according to direct buyer feedback, they recently began to consider as a key accessory next to shoes and bags and a buy-in item for major designers. As opposed to perfume or beauty, which used to be the first attainable brand extension licensed to be explored, I believe people now look to the eyewear category.

Oliver Peoples has always been a harmonious blend between modernity and vintage. Looking at how the vintage era is influencing fashion currently; do you think eyewear (and to a greater extent, your own designs) began the vintage craze?

Yes, absolutely. Back in the late 1980’s when we first launched, the trend was very geometric, in the style of YSL. Our vintage inspired designs were a huge departure from what people were doing at that time. Our customers have said many times that we changed the direction of eyewear globally and created a category of intellectual, vintage inspired eyewear that did not previously exist. Over the next 10 years (between 1987-1997), everyone has started doing a vintage look and the trend continues to this day. Like in all fashion, things come and go, but I do believe we were one of the first to blaze the trail in eyewear.


In the 25 years of the brand you've collaborated with brands such as Prada, Paul Smith, Helmut Lang and Jil Sander.  Any other designers you'd be keen to collaborate with?

Those collaborations, other than Paul Smith, were ones that I worked on personally, not related Oliver Peoples. Paul Smith is a license that we have had since 1994. There are so many designers that I respect and admire and I feel that working with another designer, if it is a natural and unforced collaboration, can be really interesting and fun. To combine and fuse talents and vision is a unique experience and each time the result is different.

What are you looking forward to most in the future of eye fashion?

I’m looking forward to the day when the lead time of production gets shorter and more technology is available. Most people don’t know that our design process can take anywhere between 9 and 16 months. In the future, I hope that our factories can produce prototypes and production of the highest quality plastic frames and custom plastic colors in a much shorter amount of time. This would of course help when it comes to trends, but in general, when you are realize your visions quicker, you are able to live in the now. It is human nature is to want for today. When you are creating a design, you fall in love with it, and it’s hard to have to wait a year before you get to enjoy it in the real world.  I’d love to be able to produce a small quantity of a custom plastic frames in 1 or 2 weeks in my own office which means technology would have to really advance to get to that level.